A Marxist Critique of the Gucci × Dapper Dan Harlem Ad
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MIXING LUXURY WITH LOCAL CULTURE
The Gucci × Dapper Dan collaboration is
framed in the promo as a celebration of Harlem’s iconic style and
craftsmanship. But through a Marxist lens, this isn’t just about
appreciation—it’s about how capitalist brands capitalize on subculture. Filming
in Dapper Dan’s old neighborhood vibes with authenticity, but ultimately Gucci
controls the profits and intellectual property. This setup shows how valuable
local culture gets turned into products, reinforcing corporate power even while
appearing to celebrate creative communities.
Honestly, while watching the video, I was
impressed at first. It looked like a positive collaboration Gucci embracing
Harlem culture. But when I started thinking about it through what we learned in
class about Marxism, it became clear there’s more going on under the surface.
Throughout the video, Gucci’s luxury branding is front and center high-end
fabrics, polished logos, and a sleek studio feel. Meanwhile, Dapper Dan, who
once worked independently, now appears under Gucci’s umbrella. Marxists would
call this the bourgeoisie (Gucci) absorbing the proletariat (local talent) to
boost profits. Although the ad suggests a partnership, real control like
copyright and big marketing budgets stays with Gucci. It’s a classic story,
authentic creators handed a small victory while the big brand keeps the wealth.
Dapper Dan originally flipped designer
logos into something rebellious and street-level. But now that energy is
packaged as couture, sold at high prices to rich customers. Marx says
capitalism turns real culture into exchangeable products. The ad glosses over
this transformation, packaging it as a cultural celebration rather than
profit-driven marketing. This really made me think about how easily real
culture can be taken and flipped into something that’s just there to sell a
product. It’s kind of disappointing, especially knowing that Dapper Dan
originally did all this as a form of rebellion.
The ad portrays an uplifting story a local
legend gets recognition, joins forces with Gucci, and elevates Harlem. But from
a Marxist view, this can serve as a disguise. It suggests that the fashion
world is welcoming just look, they’ve
embraced Dapper Dan! Meanwhile, the bigger issue of wealth inequality and brand
dominance is untouched. You see Dapper
Dan cutting, stitching, choosing fabrics but that hands-on labour is filtered
through Gucci’s brand. Marx noted that workers often do the real work, but bosses
keep the payoff. Here, Dapper Dan’s creative skills are essential, yet online and marketing wise the focus is on the brand
logo, not the person behind it. His cultural value is used visually, but the
economic value mostly flows sideways to Gucci.
On screen, Dapper Dan is the hero, but
off-screen, Gucci holds the real cultural power control over who sees these
designs, at what price, and under what brand name. What seems like cultural
empowerment ends up reinforcing corporate dominance. It’s a temporary boost for
Dan, but Gucci bags the prestige and the bigger slice of the profit.From a personal perspective, it’s hard
not to admire Dapper Dan and feel happy for him. But I also couldn’t shake the
feeling that Gucci gained a lot more from this than he did, especially in terms
of brand reputation. Was Dapper Dan’s fashion act ever truly a rebellion? As
soon as his designs are co-signed by Gucci, the subversive energy gets
absorbed. The ad insists this is progress, but Marx would point out that true
subculture resists being absorbed it tries to stay grassroots.
The
Big Question
So, what we’re left with is a partnership
that feels good to look at: a win for Harlem creatives, and a PR moment for
Gucci. But when you dig deeper, you realize that the structures of class and
profit haven’t really changed. The artwork is still controlled by the
corporation; the creativity still lives in a box owned by someone else.So yeah,
while the collab looks great on camera, it definitely raises some questions
about who’s really benefiting and whether true creative freedom exists when big
money is involved.
IN CONCLUSION
This critique offers more than just a
reading of a fashion ad it shows how capitalism often reshapes culture to serve
its own goals. Even when it seems like progress is happening, it’s important to
ask at what cost, and who really wins? At first glance, the Gucci and Dapper
Dan collaboration looks like a big win for recognition and culture. A Harlem
fashion icon teaming up with one of the biggest names in luxury fashion seems
like a step in the right direction. But when you look at it through a Marxist
lens, it becomes clear that the campaign isn’t just about celebrating
creativity it’s also about using culture
as a business tool.
To be fair, Dapper Dan has played a huge
role in shaping fashion, especially in Black communities. It’s exciting to see
him finally being acknowledged by the same industry that once ignored and even
shut him out. But this sudden recognition from Gucci comes with strings
attached. Marxist theory teaches us that under capitalism, the ruling class or
in this case, a major brand can absorb cultural movements to maintain their own
power. What looks like inclusion can sometimes be a way of staying in control.
The ad campaign positions Gucci as a
forward-thinking brand that’s giving credit where it’s due. But who really
gains the most from this partnership? Gucci expands its audience, repairs its
image after past controversies, and boosts sales. Meanwhile, Dapper Dan, while
visible and praised, still operates under the Gucci name, not his own. This
shows how the system hasn’t really changed
it’s just been rebranded. It reflects Marx’s idea of commodification,
where even resistance and culture can be turned into something that’s bought
and sold.
There’s also the issue of control. In the
video, Dapper Dan is shown selecting materials, designing clothes, and being
celebrated as a creative force. But Gucci owns the resources, the platform, and
the profits. Dan’s talent is used to sell an image of inclusivity, but he
doesn’t hold the same power in the business side of things. This ties directly
to alienation, a concept Marx used to describe how workers or creatives can be disconnected from the value of their own
labour under capitalism.
The campaign also creates a narrative that
feels good. It tells a story of redemption, progress, and representation. But
according to Marxist theory, that feel good story can be a form of false
consciousness. It makes viewers believe that justice has been served, that
fashion has evolved, and that success is finally being shared. But in reality,
the system of profit, ownership, and control remains largely untouched. The
emotions the ad creates can distract us from asking harder questions about
fairness and real change. When I watched the ad, I could see what Gucci was
going for, and I honestly liked the way it highlighted Harlem and Dapper Dan’s
story but I still had mixed feelings about how genuine the message was.
Another major point is how the ad shows
culture being used to market luxury. Dapper Dan’s earlier work was rooted in
rebellion he used brand logos in ways
that weren’t legal but reflected real style and identity in Harlem. Now, those
same logos are part of a high-end campaign. What once challenged the fashion
world is now used to help it grow. This is what Marx would describe as the
absorption of subculture turning real
community expression into something that serves capitalism.Even though the
campaign looks inspiring, the power dynamics haven’t changed much. Gucci still
decides what gets shown, how it gets marketed, and who gets the credit. It may
appear that Dapper Dan is being lifted up, but the truth is he’s being folded
into a larger system that still profits more from his work than he does.
Marxist critics would say this is how capitalism works it takes culture and turns it into capital
while keeping control.
That said, it’s still possible to feel
proud of Dapper Dan’s visibility. Representation does matter, and his legacy
deserves attention. But we can celebrate that and still be critical of the
system that allowed this recognition only after it could be turned into profit.
The key is not to take the surface message at face value, but to think deeper
about what it means and who it really benefits. In the end, the Gucci × Dapper
Dan campaign is a good example of how capitalism adjusts to criticism. It
doesn’t necessarily fix inequality it
just changes how it presents itself. Luxury brands like Gucci are learning how
to look inclusive without giving up much control. They tell meaningful stories,
but those stories are still told on their terms.
So, while the collaboration is visually
impressive and symbolically important, it also reminds us that real empowerment
means more than visibility, it means ownership, access, and lasting change.
Until creators like Dapper Dan have equal say in the structure, not just the
style, collaborations like this will remain more brand strategy than
revolution.
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